When we will return...
When we will return...
The report on an ascension to the Everest - words and its eyes
Participants.
In the beginning of June the Western-Siberian expedition has come to the end on
The main top of a planet - the Everest (it - "CHomolangma", so it
It sounds on-tibetski, - "Sagarmatha" on-nepalski). In
Structure voshoditelej was the six climbers, five of which
Have visited at height of 8 848 metres. They have devoted the ascension
To 70-year-old anniversary Hunts-Mansijskogo of autonomous region. At all
Lacks of the Russian expeditions of the Himalayas, the main thing from which
Is - poverty, they have opened a new millenium in the high-rise
Mountaineering the highest results. In the spring of this year
28th have been obedient Himalaya vosmitysjachnik - Lhotze average, to
This time not passed by anybody. Results everestovskoj campaigns -
8 from 11 climbers have become successful.
We offer the reader the story of the chairman of organising committee
Sergey Chernojarova's expeditions about this travel. The majority
Photos it is made Andrey Oleara's by objective. They are going to
To publish the book. So somewhat it is its fragments.
To begin it is necessary from messages bad. What to consider as a victory? After all
We have lost the person: Petersburger Alexey Nikiforov remained
To lay there, among snow and rocks of Chomolungma, in the same place, where lay
About two hundred other climbers from the different countries of the world, which
Already anybody never will bury. The Everest - a natural pyramid,
The big burial place, one for all - Buddhists, Catholics and
The orthodox. Remaining there for ever, they increase mountain in
Volume. Lift its height.
But nothing will stop pilgrims. Never ask,
What for they go to mountains. Never ask, that they feel
At top. To you will respond something banal, will tell nonsense,
Will tint philosophy. Nonsense! Do not believe. As a rule, they
All not very well understand it.
"I fight, because I fight", - Porthos used to say
To musketeers. It settled arguments, and it is not necessary to go to
To the psychoanalyst. Ask better, that I do in this stuffy
City? Why I do not go to Altai, I do not wade Ob, lines
Take! But why all the same Chomolungma? After all, speak, is
The Everest - already a metaphor, a certain symbol is more interesting - for a long time than top
The heights, swelled up from comparisons and images. Plus to it is most
Expensive payment in the Himalayas for an ascension.
On money which were allocated with the government Hunts-Mansijskogo
Autonomous region, it was possible to organise powerful expedition on
Less odious top. Here above only not to find. It also has appeared
Solving in respect of preparation for celebrating of the 70 anniversary of district.
The project was advanced in Khanty-Mansiysk by one of heads
District TV - Timur Volkov. It nearly has not acquired a heart attack,
Composing every possible letters and applications, convincing officials in
Uniqueness and necessity of realisation of the anniversary project.
We were engaged in it of year three - did any preview trailers,
Booklets, addressed to mayors of district cities. Probably,
The energy made round the project, was materialised:
The governor of district Alexander Vasilevich Filipenko has given OK.
Huge to it for these thanks. To the received district means
It was necessary to connect sponsor's, private investments. Has very much helped with
Money "Surgutgazprom" - low bow its "general" Jury
Ivanovichu Vazheninu (by the way, to the quite good climber in students).
Here and our expedition Western-Siberian - has turned out under
Flags of different cities. Six tomichej - Anna Akinina (already
The unique woman of the Russia who have visited on three
"vosmitysjachnikah", including the Everest), Dmitry Bochkov,
Amangeldy Eleushev, Stanislav Krylov, Oleg Novitsky and Evgenie
Priests, and also piterets Alexey Nikiforov supported
Hunts-Mansijsky autonomous region. From us there was also a doctor -
Vyacheslav Kolomin. From Kuzbas - Alexander Fojgt, Nikolay
Kozhemjako, Sergey Zuev and Jury Uteshev. From Barnaul - Alexander
provatorov, the tourist and the water-transport worker who has solved for a while
To train for a new profession in climbers. However, all one after another.
Dmitry Bochkov - the candidate of sciences became the organizer of expedition,
The employee of institute of optics of atmosphere. It also has resulted the command
Climbers to the Everest. To Dmitry - 52 years. "The Everest is a top
My climbing career, - he spoke, - if I this time not
I descend, I do not descend any more never ". And, actually, one, with
Fantastic persistence has started to prepare expedition, to conduct
Negotiations with the Nepalese party to form command structure. In
Process of selection of candidates we with Dimoj have thought, probably,
Having reinsured, that for command strengthening the person is necessary with
Decent experience of the Himalaya ascensions. Then the choice has fallen on
Alexey Nikiforova at whom behind shoulders was п -2 (8 611 metres,
It still name mountain-murderer) and Makalu (8 481 metres) - all were
Are passed by it without use of oxygen devices. Alexey
Has immediately responded to an appeal and has from its part begun search
Missing means for itself. (It to the latest
Minutes of the life will remember that firm which paid
Its trip: at height of 8 600 metres, having already disconnected from
Realities, from last forces will ask to help Aman Eleusheva to it
To make some photos with posters of the sponsor.) and in Tomsk
Sponsors and were not. Or nearly so was not: one
"Rosgosstrakh" has only insured each participant, switching on
Film crew.
So expedition has gone to a way, having only that minimum,
Which was, probably, only at the very first subjugators
The Everest. If is not worse. As at those very first, quite
Got high-rise porters, and problems with zabrasyvaniem cargoes
In intermediate high-rise the camp, certainly, was not.
However, to Russians not to get used to search in the Himalayas
Absolutely non-standard courses for reduction in price of ascensions. In
Any case, Flanks has coped with it quite successfully. The main thing -
Correctly to arrange trade process. So and sherpy have thrown
Oxygen on 8 300 metres for ours, and satellite phone we
Used, regularly informing the information to an external world.
(By the way, we communicated with the external world, and here internal communication
Between groups voshoditelej was bad - portable radio sets refused.)
The film crew has arrived to Katmandu for a month after the command
voshoditelej. In its structure, except me - the journalist of TV-2 Vyacheslav
Nikolaev and writer Andrey Olear. We already knew from the Internet, that
Climbers have crossed the nepalo-Chinese border, have arrived to Tibet,
Have established the advanced base camp on 6 400 metres and continue
Route processing in camps on 7 100 and 7 800 metres.
Simultaneously there is an acclimatisation process. The letter, which we
Have received from Dimy at once after arrival, has pleased us with the
Concreteness and optimism, having dispelled, the truth, magic
Representations about fantastic Nepal:
"If you have received this letter, means, you have met. It is necessary to you
To go to hotel "Swoniga". The scheme of journey and the hotel advertising leaflet
I apply. If you will be two the hotel will manage to you in 8
Dollars a day (one doubl-room) if will be three it is possible
To take one more room for 6 dollars. When will agree
About the price, show a card "Tomsk", otherwise to you
It is necessary to pay 45 dollars a day for double and 35 dollars
For the single. On the contrary there is hotel Sherpa Guest Hous. There it is possible
To lodge for 1 dollar is cheaper, but conditions - are 10 times worse.
Exchange of money. To change it is necessary 1 dollar for 75 Nepalese rupees. We
"Have adjusted" exchange point in 80 steps from hotel (to the right). There
It is necessary to tell: "Russian Everest Expedition". By the way, there it is possible
To live for 1,5 dollars on the person. Concerning purchases. In first two
Day in general buy nothing. At purchase be guided
Following principle: import (new) can be managed to get no more
20 %, import old - to 35 %. The local goods can be bought more cheaply
In 2-3, and even in 5 times. Be not afraid to leave, and then to return.
Nepaleses like to bargain and respect those who it is able to do.
The others hold for lohov.
Transport. In an old city it is better to use a rickshaw. The prices -
30-40 rupees. Be not afraid to cut the price.
P.S. For an input to Bhaktapur (an old city in Katmandu full
Museums and palaces. - S.CH.) take on 10 dollars from the person.
To pay do not hurry up. Not reaching metres 50 to central gate,
There is a small street to the right. On it still 5 years ago it was possible to pass
Free of charge ".
We needed to buy some climbing equipment and a number
Souvenirs. So councils were very opportunely. In general, in these
Lines about Nepal it is told more than in any of guidebooks.
The majority of Nepaleses are opened, cheerful,
Sincere people irrespective of a standard of well-being. They like
The kings, the Dalaj-llama, the Bean of the Gauze and tourists. With tourists all
Simply: the it is more than them, the there live people is better. Russian - poor
Tourists, but ridiculous. It is pleasant to bargain with them. It is possible and is simple
To chat and be photographed for memory.
By the way, Nepaleses it is not necessary to ask to pose before
Camera - they do it naturally, as if all life
Film acted in. Especially children.
Katmandu - capital of climbers and hippie. Both at those, and at
Others - not quite distinct for ordinary consciousness the vital purposes and
Contempt for civilisation material benefits. There is still, a truth,
Shambhala selectors (we lived in Tibet already at once in hotel Shangbala -
So it is correct on-tibetski) and Roerich's followers.
Our ambassador in Nepal simply catastrophically is afraid of the similar
Persons. They constantly should be rescued from any gorges
And as soon as possible to send home. They climb in mountains (with children!)
In search of an enlightenment or search for caves "somati", but all these
Searches come to an end often enough with sad histories, which
There is no number. By the way, neither Buddhist monks, nor guides - anybody from them
No concept has, who such Roerichs and madam Blavatskaya, and that they
The such have made for destinies of the world. As to a Shambhala and jeti,
This good there in bulk - for tourists.
In national reserve Chitvan I have asked the guide, with which
We stirred, it could not show to us on a map, where among everyone
Wild beasts lives jeti? - Here, - it has stuck with a finger into any place
On a map.
- To whom it is similar jeti? Who it?
- You! - also has stuck already into my party.
And already after other Nepalese among all these
"Jungle" has sung to us on a guitar "Hotel California", we have reached
Enlightenments also have realised, that a Shambhala somewhere nearby.
Not to cast away a foot at once after arrival to the base
Camp near the Everest at height of 5 200 metres, the Mr. with the outstanding
Name Karma SHerpa (it was the organizer of round for ours
Expeditions and, accordingly, took under the wing and
Reporters-laymans) has offered our film crew
treningovyj a route to lake at height of 4,5 thousand metres, where in the
Time of veins SHiva.
By the way, for any sherpa or the high-rise porter the tourist -
Something like a sacred cow. Anybody and never will leave you
One on a mountain track. Will follow you, to encourage and
Will rescue, when it is required.
Continuation in following number.
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//* an information Source: News Jugry/Hanty-Man-sk, 4.09.01
//* Reg. Nom. - 1110900008.01-------------------------------------------
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