Chanel N 1.
Chanel N 1.
Some instants of love from a life Koko Chanel.
In 60th years already last century almost all performances
The Bolshoi theatre during its tours in Paris the old visited
The lady which name has become history of France and a world fashion. Called
Its Gabriel Chanel, and for all people knowing it it was simply
Koko. Till last days (and she has died in 1971) it
Liked to repeat, that "the life live beings is always
Riddle ". As if spoke about itself - after all just now
Many latent pages of its destiny in which it is difficult open
Have intertwined the trade which has brought Koko world glory, constantly
Love affairs accompanying it and even secret operations.
Imperial dream - to the novel.
... Popularity of Grasse much more surpasses its sizes. This
Small town in mountains over Nice has a reputation for perfumery capital
France. On 40 thousand inhabitants it is necessary from tens factories,
Making the well-known French perfume. From here originates and
Their most known stamp - "Chanel N 5", and all history of the house
Fashions Gabriel Chanel. These spirits have brought to it glory and
Status, have made its that great Koko, which the indisputable
Authority of Frenchmen the writer and statesman Andre
Malro has named among three outstanding public figures in history of France
The XX-th centuries - along with Charles de Gaulle and Pablo Picasso.
And everything began, certainly, with hobby. However, communication Koko
With grand duke Dmitry Pavlovichem sent by the tsar in January
1917 in exile for participation in murder Rasputina, simply
Hobby you will not name. The novel was short, but rough. Dmitry,
As well as the majority of men, has at first sight fallen in love with Chanel.
Reciprocity she first did not respond it. And when the relative
The grand duke has come to Chanel and has told to it, that in a dream to it
The tsar who as if has told was, that Dmitry and it should
To be together - such is will of destiny, Koko cut off: "To me the tsar not
Came ".
Persistence of Russian prince nevertheless has got the best. Whether not therefore,
That, by the words told by it later, "all these crown princes
Called me huge pity: their job, when they it
Carry out, very boring, and when they without job, and that
Worse ". Anyway, Chanel, having decided to go to Monte-Carlo on
Just got car, has invited with itself of Dmitry
To test purchase. "But on it I do not have money", - he was confused.
"I incur gasoline, and there it is not so obligatory
To stop in magnificent hotel ", - has calmed friend Koko.
In that trip on the south they also have visited Grasse where have met with
A certain Ernest Bo, the chemist-perfumer. It has spent the youth in
St.-Petersburg as his father served at an imperial court yard.
The meeting with the grand duke and its charming companion has cast
On it pleasant memoirs and... Has loosened tongue. Bo has named
The new acquaintance 24 components which should make
The new grade of spirits thought up by it. This secret grasskogo
The perfumer also has used Koko. Having added own components,
It soon, in 1921, has let out well-known "N 5", quickly
Having won the market. Why, by the way, she has chosen such name? On
To that simple reason, explained Chanel, that from all trial
Bottles in the fifth there was that mix which became new
The stamp. Besides, the five has seemed to it graceful on the
To outlines.
These spirits have brought Koko a huge status to which it was necessary
Skilfully to dispose. Three years later, in 1924, it has based
Separate perfumery firm, having invited in partners of brothers
Verthajmerov. Who could assume, that this reasonable from a point
Sight of commerce the step will turn back after a while the detective
History in which Chanel has taken away to itself a role newly appeared Floor-mats
Hari? But before those events should pass as early as the whole 15 years.
The Parisian fashion acts in Russian.
For now carefree Koko changes lovers, lets out the new
Clothes collections, winning France and all world. Also does not forget about
The first hobby - hats. After all from their models it,
The 28-year-old provincial and the orphan, has started to "take" Paris still in 1911
To year. Invariable, perhaps, there is an environment in which it is constant
Chanel, - Russian immigrants rotates.
It is obliged by acquaintance to the grand duke to the outstanding
To choreographer Sergey Dyagilev. This name rattled in the XX-th century beginning on
To all Europe. It "Russian seasons", statements of ballet performances
Were considered at that time as ballet art top. Though in the native
St.-Petersburg parents designated to Dyagilev other destiny. He studied
On the lawyer, took singing lessons, was engaged in a musical composition,
While Roman-korsakov has not taken out a severe verdict: the young man at all
It is created for music. Then Sergey has taken a great interest in painting. Arranged
Art exhibitions in Paris, Berlin.
From passionate love to music and painting there was a mix, not
Less unique, than "N 5" Koko, - talent of the choreographer, which
Has subdued Europe. Chanel admired with Russian ballet, often went
In theatre on Nizhinsky's who has become subsequently performances
"Star" djagilevskoj troupes. Even the strict black which has subdued the world
The dress from Chanel has been thought up by it at Russian ballet performance,
When Koko has suddenly understood, that she is irritated with violence of colours in
Dresses of public sitting in a hall...
But with Dyagilev the meeting has occurred later, on its decline
Open-cast mines. The First World War has burst, and to Europeans became not
Before ballet. The choreographer has located in Italy, there the close girlfriend
Chanel has acquainted her with Russian celebrity. Dyagilev was in
Awful mood: there was nothing to pay off with debts, and here
Still the liked Nizhinsky has twice changed to it - married and has left in
Latin America. The premiere "has ended Spring with scandal
Sacred "Stravinsky: spectators have not accepted innovative
Music, Dyagilev's choreographic experiment. He has solved
To make the second statement of ballet, but money for it was not.
Good luck has smiled to it in image Koko. Despite only
Nodding acquaintance with Dyagilev to Venice, it has safely come in
Hotel in which it has stopped, having arrived to Paris. But Chanel
Has quickly corrected to it mood, having handed over the check for the sum necessary
For new statement "Spring sacred".
Dyagilev has revived, has generated new troupe and did not hesitate in a case
Needs to address for the help to Koko, become to its relatives
The friend. She has free of charge created suits for its several ballets.
Continued to render the financial help. "I was at princess P, -
He tells Chanel, - it has given to me of 75 thousand ". Also hears in
The answer: "But it the well-known American lady, and I - only
French modelersha, here to you of 200 thousand ". On this person it
Money did not regret. Till the end of life Koko repeated, that Dyagilev
Was its main thing and the unique teacher.
Dyagilev has entered Koko into Russian world of Paris, and since then in the street
Kambon where the House Chanel "has taken places", Russian speech has begun to sound.
To emigrants it was hard, pushed out by Bolsheviks abroad, they
There were unnecessary, former titles, let even
Of noble family on anybody did not make impression, and job at
Chanel has appeared for many rescue. "The grey cardinal",
Giving Koko councils how to behave with Russian, were, of course,
Dmitry Pavlovich. Visitors at an input were met by the former governor
Crimea count Kutuzov. Grand duchess Maria Pavlovna, which, if
Not revolution, should become the queen of Sweden, has headed
Workshop of Russian embroidery... "All these grand dukes, -
Recollected Koko, - were similar against each other: a beautiful face,
Which expressed nothing, green eyes, thin hands... Peace,
Even timid people... They drink to get rid of fear.
These Russian are stately, beautiful, magnificent. But behind all it
Anything is not present, only emptiness and vodka ".
Were saved, however, and its other impressions: "Russian me
Always admired. Their liked "everything, that yours also I" resulted
Me in an intoxication status. All Slavs differ refinement,
Naturalness, even most unfortunate of them are uncommon ".
Operation "Fashionable hat".
By the end of 30th years, however, Russian pages of life Koko
Have appeared almost completely turned. Dyagilev, in the USA has died
Stravinsky, one time very taking a great interest Chanel has got over...
It has replaced grand duke Dmitry Pavlovicha with the duke
Westminster, the novel with which lasted the whole 14 years. This
Unusually long for Koko intimacy has entered it into other environment -
The prince Welsh, Winston Churchill...
Chanel was in zenith of glory and, despite age (to it
Already was for 50), continued to have enviable success at
Men.
War has spoilt all game, laying a successful patience, besides.
First Chanel has taken of quite patriotic position and even has gone
On a risky step, having shown the collection of clothes in
Sine-white-red colours - colours of France. But then she has solved
To close the house of a fashion. "I had a feeling, - recollected Koko, -
That the whole epoch has ended and that nobody will already never sew
Dresses ". And it has retired to magnificent Parisian hotel" п п я ".
But the voluntary imprisonment lasted not for long. Koko has found for itself
New employment, less harmless, than creation of models or
Manufacture of spirits.
In numerous biographies and encyclopaedic inquiries
"The white stain" - years of occupation of France is easy to find out Chanel
Nazis. Under one, muffled version, it has spent them in
Switzerland. On another, did not leave France. And any
Details of its relations with the occupational German authorities.
The archives of English investigation declassified in the mid-nineties
Have shed at last light the then activity Koko smelling,
Alas, much worse, than well-known "N 5".
In 1940, at 57-year-old age, Koko once again
Has fallen in love. This time in the mister who for 15 years was younger
It. Called its Hans Gjunter background Dinklage and it served the attache
The German embassy. This German was, apparently, the agent
Abvera. Koko has decided to use acquaintance to return
To itself exclusive rights of the property on spirits "Chanel". Remember
Brothers Verthajmerov? And so they also have redeemed before war these
The rights, and then because of the Jewish origin are compelled
Were to leave nazi Germany to the United States. Dinklage
Promised to help.
The invention has failed, as Verthajmery had time to issue quickly
The control over spirits "Chanel" on figureheads. And then in a head
Koko other project, this time much more arrogant was born, -
To stop military actions. She has decided to be got involved in history with
The conclusion of the separate world between the western allies and
Germany.
Through lover Chanel has come into contact to Walter
Schellenberg, the chief razvedsluzhby SS and authorised representative Himmler,
Which was one of those in a nazi management who bore
Idea of the separate world. Having offered Schellenberg the services, Koko in
April, 1943 on its call goes to Berlin, that
To discuss details of the plan.
It consisted in using old acquaintance
Chanel with then British prime minister Winston Churchill, with
Which it repeatedly met before war in the house of the
The lover of the duke Westminster. And to whom then was not
The name well-known Chanel is known?!
Recollecting this business in 1945, when it in quality already
The nazi criminal was interrogated by English investigation,
Schellenberg, according to the report, has declared the following: "To me
Have presented the woman, having told, that she well enough knows
Churchill to carry on with it political negotiations. She has named
Itself the enemy of the Soviet Russia also asserted, that wishes to help
France and Germany which destinies, as she said, are closely connected
Among themselves ". Schellenberg has ordered, that Chanel has arrived in
Berlin. Here then, in April, 1943, also the first has taken place their
Meeting on which the secret operation conceived Koko, has received
The name "Fashionable hat".
What were motives Koko? Those who at that time knew Chanel,
Reject the version of treachery of national interests and speak
Even about it "self-sacrifice for the sake of a world establishment" and about "blood
Jeannes d'ark, flowing in veins Koko ". Than, however,
Was guided known modelersha, more surprisingly
Behaviour of the higher ranks of "the third Reich". Certainly, Himmler wanted
To stop war, to achieve the separate world in the West and has relied
In this business on clever Schellenberg. But why last has accepted
So naive offer proceeding besides from "star"
The Parisian fashion? The officer of English investigation Stewart Hempshir conducting
Schellenberg's interrogations, admitted recently, that has been amazed by that,
How much that uproshchenno saw a state of affairs in the Great Britain ".
As it was possible to believe, the English officer, that was surprised
Any secular acquaintance will force Churchill to carry on negotiations about
The separate world with Germany while already was
It is obvious, what she will lose war?
Nevertheless Chanel has received from Schellenberg "kindly" on
Operation "Fashionable hat" also has gone to Madrid, that through
The British ambassador familiar to it in Spain and one girlfriend to leave on
Communication with Churchill. Having arranged again in hotel "п п я ", this time
Madrid, Koko looked forward to hearing from the British prime minister. But and
Has not waited. Having received the message, that Churchill is seriously sick, it
Has understood, that its mission has ended with failure. Koko so never and not
Has learnt, that Schellenberg has passed other letter to Churchill with
The offer on a meeting for discussion of the separate world. To that
Time the chief of investigation SS already, probably, has realised, that operation
"The fashionable hat" does not make chances of success.
After clearing of Paris Koko, whose cooperation with
Invaders was obvious, at once it has been detained by the French
The forces of the internal law and order generated from groups
Resistance movements. But behind a lattice it has stayed not for long -
Only one hour. It is said that for it strove rather
The high-ranking persons, including... Winston Churchill.
The only thing that have demanded from Koko the new authorities in exchange for
Freedom, - immediate departure from France. She has got over in
Switzerland where its communication with Walter has unexpectedly renewed
Schellenberg to whom Chanel, despite of everything, tested
Liking. From all nazi criminals who have appeared before
By the Nuremberg court process, to it esesovtsu has been taken out most
Soft sentence - six years of imprisonment. Koko it is regular
Wrote it letters to the chamber and when Schellenberg left on freedom in
1951, continued it to support, including it is material.
On March, 31st, 1952 Schellenberg has died, and Chanel has incurred
All expenses on its funeral.
The history of life Koko on it does not come to an end. The post-war have settled
Passions, have excused it former sins, having allowed to return in
France. There it undertook again a fashion. When Marlene Dietrich
Has asked at Chanel, what for it is necessary for it, she has explained the
Returning to the main employment is simple: "Because I died from
Melancholy ". Whether From melancholy or from what, recollected Koko and about even
One former hobby - Russian ballet. That is why it it is frequent
Saw at the Parisian performances Big...
Vitaly DYMARSKY.
<$>
//* an information Source: the Russian newspaper, 13.07.01
//* Reg. Nom. - 1110700162.32-------------------------------------------
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